Damian's On The River-Restaurant

DAMIAN'S ON THE RIVER 737 River Road, New Boston 497-8888 Serving: Seven days a week, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Reservations recommended. Accommodations: Wheelchair accessible. Cuisine: American Prices: $$$ Price guide: $ Inexpensive - up to $15/entree $$ Moderate - $16 to $30 $$$ Expensive - $31 and up Rating: * * * Ratings guide: * acceptable * * good * * * worth a detour * * * * worth a journey Visit the Dining section of NewHampshire.com to read previous Our Gourmet reviews listed by town.

There is nothing quite so exciting as the prospect of trying out a new restaurant, so it was with great anticipation that we went to Damian’s On The River in New Boston on a recent evening. Our anticipation was well-founded as we were rewarded with a fine dinner, good service and a charming atmosphere — and a desire to go back for more.

Damian’s opened quite recently. The address is in New Boston, but if you’re coming from the Manchester area, it’s actually closer to Goffstown. You won’t recognize it at first: What used to stand on the site was the old Shipwreck Seafood. Owners Damian and Sonia Martineau have razed the old landmark and in its place erected a new building that is both comfortable and casually elegant.

The menu changes seasonally, with an emphasis on fine food cooked with fresh ingredients from scratch. It’s something Chef Damian Martineau knows a little bit about: A graduate of the famed Culinary Institute of America, Martineau spent 20 years cooking for the Washington, D.C., power set. Originally from Pelham, he and his wife decided to come back to the area where he grew up and raise their kids here.

Martineau is a member of the American Culinary Federation/Nation’s Capital Chef’s Association, among other things, and he has many ribbons and medals on display at the restaurant that show he is, indeed, an accomplished chef.

But the proof is in the pudding, as they say — or at least in the food. All the honors and training in the world don’t mean anything if you can’t deliver and fortunately for us, Chef Damian delivered.

We got a nice table by the window which, by daylight, would have given us a lovely view of the river. Our server, Georgia, was personable, knowledgeable and efficient. My only complaint was that the space between the tables was not quite as much as I would have liked. If there had been four of us instead of two, we certainly would have been very cozy with the tables behind us. We were able to avoid being cramped by choosing chairs diagonally behind, rather than directly behind, our neighbors.

I started out the meal with a lobster mac ($10.75), a twist on the old comfort food. A velvety cheese sauce coated the gemelli, which was mixed with small chunks of lobster. The portion, while delicious, was almost comically small, although I have to point out that at the end of the evening, I did not leave Damian’s hungry. My perception of the portion probably said more about American’s tendency to overeat than anything else.

My dining companion began his meal with a duckling pate wrapped in smoked bacon ($5.95). It was served with blueberry chutney and organic greens with toast points. The flavors of the pate were excellent — and wonderfully enhanced by the blueberry chutney. We’d love to see how this dish would taste with traditional New England cranberries in lieu of blueberries as well.

Main courses are served with a choice of potato and vegetable sides (you get to pick two) that range from mashed potatoes to jasmine rice to garlic sauteed spinach.

My entree was a grilled beef tenderloin in a creamy mushroom sauce ($24.75). Expertly prepared, the tenderloin was cooked to order. It was in a pool of mushroom sauce that, which small, packed a lot of flavor and complemented the tenderloin perfectly.

My companion opted for the Atlantic salmon served over a crispy Maine lobster risotto cake ($18.75). The fish was superb and the crispiness of the risotto delightfully offset the texture of salmon.

Damian and Sonia Martineau, owners of Damian's on the River in New Boston, are excited with the reception that their new restaurant has received from the community. (KATE HARPER photos)

This seems to be the secret of the food at Damian’s — simple, but classic fare coupled with a little something that elevates it to a higher level. If you’ve read this column before, you know that nothing makes me so happy as fresh desserts made in-house and Damian’s made me very, very happy. All desserts are made on the premises by a pastry chef. On the night we went there were no less than 19 offerings, including two diabetic-friendly desserts. Offerings ranged from Key Lime pie to chocolate bread pudding in a pool of ganache with apricot sauce; from chocolate almond cake to caramel pear walnut cake. Like the appetizers and the entrees, the desserts change seasonally, so we should always be able to find something that piques our interest.

On this particular night, the lavender creme brulee was what caught my attention ($6.75). This is something you can’t get just anywhere and I wasn’t about to let it go untested. The creme brulee was sweet and creamy with more than a little lavender flavor. The fact I had a large serving probably didn’t help, but the taste, while pleasant at first, does tend to get a bit over the top after a while. Some things are just meant to be enjoyed in moderation and this is probably one of them, I guess.

My dining companion chose the pumpkin cheesecake with roasted pecan crust, ($5.95) a recipe the New Hampshire Union Leader featured in its “In Good Taste” special section published Sept. 30. It was a delectable, creamy cheesecake that both of us enjoyed. If I cooked — which I don’t — I’d try preparing it myself. Instead, I’ll just have to make a point to return to Damian’s On The River to get another serving. Soon.

Have any comments for Our Gourmet or a suggestion for a restaurant you’d like to see reviewed? E-mail gourmet@unionleader.com